Thursday, November 15, 2007

3 months ago: The Caribbean Revisited


Last August I had the great pleasure to be invited back to Union Island, in St. Vincent & The Grenadines; this time as a guest at Big Sands hotel, which was recently bought by the owners of Deluxe Traveller Magazine. It was an opportunity to work with Kenneth on the next edition of the mag, see some old friends from Canouan Island, and of course, enjoy some diving in the beautiful Tobago Quays.


Tuesday, November 13, 2007

The happy tracker shows you how it's done...

For those of you who have never been on a land safari, there are two important job roles per vehicle. There's the ranger, who is also the driver, and of course, an expert in all things wildlife and nature. Then you have a tracker, who is usually a ranger in training, and his (or her) main job is to sit up front on a high chair to scan the reserve for features of interest and interpret animal tracks on the ground as we pass. He then relays the information back to the ranger with a system of hand signals.

Sounds easy?

I decided to give it a go during a morning game tour. Let's take a look at how I did.



I scan the horizon with eagle eyes, searching the dust plains for signs of life.



I try the other direction, thinking I may have seen a significant movement in the bush.




Yes! It's a whole stampede of hungry lions headed straight for us! (I point, to show my brilliant discovery)




I'm terribly pleased with myself. The audience break out into rapturous applause. Now, I truly am a happy tracker.

4 Months Ago: Africa (cont)...


Our second destination was a traditional game lodge in Madikwe Private Game Reserve, South Africa. Having experienced the ultimate river hideaway at Ntwala Island, where we lived side by side with hippos and crocodiles, it was time to venture in land to track down some more of Africa's greatest predators. I was not to be disappointed.

Here's some extracts from my article. Enjoy.

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"...We cross the line between civilisation and wilderness where the highway ends and a dusty track begins. Surrounded on both sides by seemingly infinite bush land, we bump and rattle along a rocky road that runs straight as an arrow. Ahead, a mountainous hill looms closer and closer, dramatic and imposing against the backdrop of a sapphire sky. I scan the horizon for animals as we bounce by, but for now there is only the dense vegetation and the ochre-red earth, which is radiant in the late afternoon light.
Moments after we enter the reserve boundary a large warthog ambles across the road, tusks gleaming in the fading light. A giraffe is nonchalantly chewing leaves from the highest branches of a tree, and a wilder beast stamps nearby in the dust. Welcome to Madikwe..."



"...At one point our tracker moved back into the safety of the vehicle and that could mean only one thing. Lions. A whole pride, in fact. My heart skipped a beat and I surveyed the scene, searching for my first glimpse of a feline form. I was not disappointed. Sixteen lions, including two males, were lazily feasting on yesterday’s kill – the slightly pungent carcass of a giraffe. They appraised us as we approached and I gulped, noticing the immensely powerful muscles of one nearby female. She was huge beyond my imaginings and as soft in appearance as a puppy..."




I spent some time poking around under rocks in and around the lodge, looking for Black Mambas. I didn't find any - maybe that wasn't a bad thing! hehe...

Monday, November 12, 2007

4 Months Ago: Africa

On a sunny morning in Devon I had received news of Africa, and from the floral-printed walls of the breakfast room I had imagined the sound of distant drums and the chanting of many voices. As I stared smilingly into my Earl Grey I could almost hear the roar of lions and the screech of an elephant thumping through the game reserve.

An old acquaintance (discovered quite by luck last December, when I had escaped Canouan for the neighbouring island of Union), had just that morning emailed me to confirm that he would like me to accompany him to Africa, where we would be reviewing two safari lodges for inclusion in his privately owned and published travel magazine, Deluxe Traveller. He wanted me to write the review, while he would be taking the photographs.

Of course, it was an opportunity I couldn't refuse, and so the flights were booked that very day.

A few weeks later I was on my way to Johannesburg, from there to Botswana, and then by river boat to customs at Namibia immigration. Beyond that isolated island outpost on the Chobe River I continued by motor boat to our first destination, The Ntwala Island Lodge: an exclusive retreat in the middle of the Zambezi; accessible only by boat, and surrounded by exotic wildlife, rainforest jungle and surging river rapids. Kenneth Reece, (owner of Deluxe Traveller) was due to meet me there the following day. Here's some excerpts taken from my (as yet unpublished) review.

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"...Our suite had a spacious sprawling interior and opened onto a huge deck complete with plunge pool. Private hammock seats were perfectly positioned at the waterfront, granting us a front-row view of the vibrant Zambezi River and the tropical islet beyond. An ancient Jackal-Berry tree sprung through the centre of the terrace, standing sentinel over our outside dining area..."














"An afternoon picnic was arranged in the romantic setting of a lush neighbouring island as an alternative to lunch at the lodge. Alfred navigated us over the rapids and we landed on the shore of a pristine tropical oasis called Olive Island. Walking through the jungle canopy we were amazed to discover a beautiful clearing, which stretched down to the river. A picnic blanket had been laid out on the sandy ground and a tantalising feast spread out before us. Champagne glistened invitingly in an icebox and scatter-cushions were arranged for our comfort.
We enjoyed a languid lunch just metres from the rushing rapids, surrounded by the sounds of the jungle: the chattering of monkeys and the chorus of birds. Here was paradise found..."
































"...A great sense of tranquillity filled me as we drifted silently with the current and soaked up the glorious morning sunshine. It was not long before I felt a huge pressure on my line, and began to reel in with all my strength. It was a three-kilo tiger fish, glistening and writhing, showing a gaping maw of tiny teeth. I was delighted. We captured the moment on camera before releasing the fish back into the river to fight another day...."

Return of The Blog!

Being back in England is all too safe and familiar in the wrong kind of way. You could say that I've been afflicted by an unusually long, and utterly incurable case of 'post-holiday' blues. It's been a couple of months since I was back in the home camp without any forseeable future destination of note, and the mundane has been slowly eating away at me with the imperceptible stealth and tenacity of the tide against the land.

That was until a couple of weeks ago when I reconnected with a old friend and planned another great escape - but I'm getting ahead of myself. Let us return to the summer just gone, and I shall finally illuminate my great African adventure, and what came after...